Two weeks ago while dragging a table I managed to get a little tweak in my back… nothing serious just a little sore, or so I thought! And it definitely wasn’t going to side line me when Mr. Green came up the weekend after. During the weekend it got a bit worse, kind of reminds me of what our parents use to warn us about making funny faces- watch out, if you keep you expression like that for too long your face might just get stuck. Which seemed kind of funny, since the Monday after Mr. Green left to go back to San Diego I realized that it was next to impossible to stand up straight, yet bent over I felt fine! Hmmmm… so for all of last week friends made fun of me for my Sex-jury but it seemed to be getting better, once again or so I thought! Which leads me to last Sunday.After a weekend of great surf I felt energized and ready to play with the big boys… so I paddled myself out and go some of the best waves of my life… A nice little swell came in during the early morning hours and not only were the waves a nice size but they had some nice speed to them too. About 45 minutes into my session I paddled a wave but realized a little too late that it was way bigger than I should be taking, which gave me a moment’s hesitation. Now if I would have backed off the wave I would have been fine. If I would have just continued to try and ride the way I’m sure I would have been fine too… but instead I hesitated, and unfortunately I was “fucked stupid” by the wave. As soon as I was off my board I did exactly as I had been taught all those years ago, cover your face and head and then just roll with the wave. And boy did I ever roll! At one point my hands on top of my head touched the ocean floor (thank god my hands were there or it would have been my head bumping up against the sand). After I finally stopped rolling I was able to pop my head above the water and cough my way to shore. Which at that point I felt fine, ran home to shower before heading down to the Surf Tournament in Huntington… but about a half hour later I found myself flat on my back unable to move, which is a similar position that I’ve been in all week. Now the smart thing to do would be go to a doctor… or maybe just stay on my couch! Instead I spent Sunday in Huntington meeting my idols (so couldn’t turn down the opportunity to meet Sonny Garcia!), walking the beach, playing in the waves and admiring my surf gods. Though I plan on taking it easy the rest of the week and luckily I had to cancel my trip down to surf in San Diego this weekend, because I’m a little afraid that if I spend any more time bent over (which is the only position my back is comfortable in right now) I really might just get stuck that way! But hey, at least it would be a fun way to go out :)
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